Ilustrasi Membatik /AI | Fotograger: Rahmat Nugroho/fineartamerica.com
Oleh : Faqih Maarif *)
Batik berasal dari bahasa Jawa “ambhatik“, dari kata “amba” yang berarti lebar, luas, kain; dan “titik” atau “matik” yang artinya menghubungkan titik-titik menjadi gambar tertentu pada kain yang luas atau lebar. Dalam bahasa Jawa, batik ditulis “bathik”. Dengan demikian, pengertian batik adalah seni lukis di atas kain dengan menggoreskan malam (lilin) pada alat bernama canting.
Hari Batik Nasional (HBN) adalah salah satu hari perayaan batik sebagai Warisan Kemanusiaan untuk Budaya Lisan dan Non-Bendawi (Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity). HBN ditetapkan pada 02 Oktober 2009 oleh United Nations Educational, Scientific, and Cultural Organization (UNESCO).
Dikutip dari laman kompas batik mendapatkan status ICH melalui kantor UNESCO di Jakarta oleh kantor Menko Kesejahteraan Rakyat yang mewakili pemerintah dan komunitas batik Indonesia pada tanggal 04 September 2008.
Disebutkan juga kala itu dalam waktu yang bersamaan, dari 76 seni dan budaya warisan dunia yang diakui UNESCO, Indonesia hanya menyumbangkan satu buah. Sedangkan China sejumlah 21, Jepang 13.
Agenda yang diselenggarakan UNESCO kala itu mengakui batik, wayang, keris, noken, dan tari saman sebagai Budaya Tak-benda Warisan Manusia oleh UNESCO (Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity).
Dengan usulan warisan budaya itu, UNESCO menilai bahwa batik memiliki keunikan dan filosofi mendalam, tidak hanya itu batik juga menggambarkan siklus kehidupan manusia. Berdasarkan hal inilah tanggal 02 Oktober ditetapkan sebagai Hari Batik Nasional (HBN).
Sejarah Batik

batik sendiri sangat erat kaitannya dengan kerajaan Majapahit dan penyebaran Islam di tanah Jawa. Dalam beberapa catatan penting, pengembangan batik banyak terdapat pada masa kerajaan mataram.
Membuminya batik di Nusantara adalah pada akhir abad ke-XVIII atau awal abad ke-XIX. Ragam yang dihasilkan adalah batik tulis sampai dengan awal abad ke-XX. Dalam perkembangannya kemudian kita mengenal batik CAP setelah perang dunia pertama pada tahun 1920-an.
Keluarga raja-raja Indonesia pada zaman dulu menggunakan kesenian batik sebagai pakaiannya. Awalnya batik hanya untuk kalangan terbatas untuk pakaian raja, akan tetapi karena banyak keluarga raja tinggal di luar keraton, maka kesenian ini di bawa keluar keraton dan dikerjakan di tempatnya masing-masing.
Dalam jangka waktu tertentu, selanjutnya kesenian ini ditiru oleh masyarakat luas, dan menjadi pekerjaan kaum wanita dalam rumah tangganya, untuk mengisi waktu luang. Batik yang tadinya hanya untuk masyakarat di lingkungan keraton selanjutnya menjadi pakaian rakyat yang digemari.
Kain putih pada batik merupakan hasil tenunan warga dan bahan pewarna yang dipakai berasal dari produk alam, seperti pohon mengkudu, tinggi, soga, nila dan bahan sodanya terbuat dari soda abu, serta garamnya dari tanah lumpur.
Jaman Majapahit
Sebagai kebudayaan jaman majapahit, batik dapat ditelusuri di Mojokerto dan Tulungagung. Saat itu daerah Tulungagung terdiri dari rawa-rawa yang terkenal dalam sejarah dengan dengan nama Bonorowo, daerah tersebut dikuasai oleh seorang adipate Kalang yang tidak mau tunduk dan patuh pada kerajaan Majapahit.
Dikisahkan dalam aksi polisionil yang dilakukan oleh majapahit, Adipati Kalang dikabarkan tewas disekitar desa Kalangbret. Dalam penyerangan tersebut, petugas tentara dan keluarga majapahit yang menetap dan tinggal di wilayah Bonorowo (Tulungagung) juga membawa kesenian membuat batik asli.
Selanjutnya obat-obat luar negeri untuk membuat batik Cap dikenal pasca perang dunia pertama oleh pedangang China di Mojokerto. Batik cap dapat ditemui ditemui juga di Kedungcangkring dan Jetis Sidoarjo. Saat Krisis Ekonomi, pengusaha batik ikut lumpuh dan sesudah krisis batik kembali hadir pasca jepang masuk ke Indonesia, akhirnya Batik saat itu eksis pasca revolusi.
Desa Majan dan Simo dikenal dengan tempat pembatikan sejak seabad yang lalu. Ciri khasnya adalah dasar putih dan coraknya coklat muda dan biru tua. Desa ini memiliki riwayat sebagai peninggalan di zaman perang diponegoro 1825. Saat itu pangeran diponegoro terlibat perang dengan pasukan Belanda, pasukan kyai mojo mengundurkan diri ke arah timur yang sampai dengan sekarang dinamakan Majan.
Pembuatan batik Majan merupakan peninggalan seni batik sejak zaman dahulu. Tidak hanya dikenal di kedua tempat tersebut, batik juga terkenal di desa Sembung, Trenggalek, dan beberapa di Kediri.
Jaman Penyebaran Islam
Di daerah Batoro Katong, ada keturunan dari kerajaan Majapahit yang bernama Raden Katong, adik dari Raden Fatah. Batoro Katong ini kemudian yang membawa agama islam ke Ponorogo dan Petilasan, yang sekarang adalah sebuah Masjid di daerah Patihan Wetan. Karena hal inilah kesenian batik terkenal di daerah Ponorogo.
Perkembangan berikutnya adalah di daerah Tegalsari, puteri keraton Solo menjadi istri Kyai Hasan Basri, maka dibawalah pengiring-pengiringnya menuju Ponorogo. Pembuatan batik cap di Ponorogo baru dikenal setelah perang dunia pertama dibawa oleh seorang Cina bernama Kwee Seng dari Banyumas. Batik Ponorogo dikenal pada awal abad ke 20 yang terkenal dengan pewarnaan nila yang tidak luntur.
Batik legendaris pada awal perang dunia pertama sampai dengan perang dunia kedua dikenal dengan batik cap “mori biru” yang melambungkan namanya di pasaran Indonesia.
Jika akan berwisata, kita bisa melihat daerah perbatikan yang masih dikenal hingga sekarang, yaitu di daerah Kauman (kepatihan wetan) yang meluas ke desa Ronowijoyo, Mangunsuman, Kertosari, Setono, Cokromenggalan, Kadipaten, Nologaten, Bangunsari, Cekok, Banyudono, dan Ngunut.
Budaya membatik di China
Menurut beberapa referensi menyebutkan bahwa membatik telah ada di China sejak dinasti Qin (221-207 SM) atau dinasti Han (206 SM).
Akan tetapi, perkembangan yang cukup pesat dan mulai dikenal oleh masyarakat pada Dinasti Tang (618-907) yang ketika itu batik menjadi komoditas “Jalur Sutra” lain yang di ekspor ke Eropa serta beberapa negara lain di dunia.
seperti hanya di negara kita, batik diturunkan dari generasi ke genarasi, akan tetapi budaya ini mulai menghilang di China. Setidaknya saat ini ada dua komunitas Zhuang dan Kelompok etnis Miao, yang tinggal di daerah kecil di Provinsi Guizhou, Guangxi, Sichuan, dan Yunnan. Mereka telah melestarikan tradisi kuno wax printing atau membatik hingga saat ini.
Kain berwarna biru dengan bunga putih yang seolah menyembul keluar kain menadi ciri khas etnis minoritas Zhuang. Sementara variasi gambar representasional dan non-representasional menjadi ciri khas kelompok Miao.
Jika kita berkunjung ke daerah tersebut, kita akan dengan mudah menemukan kain batik yang banyak dijadikan untuk hiasan dinding, tirai, taplak meja, bantal sampai dengan barang pribadi seperti boneka, tas dan pakaian.
Sedangkan penyebaran batik dari Tionghoa masuk ke Indonesia pada abad ke-14. Pada awalnya China berkunjung ke daerah Lasem, lalu pada abad ke-15 Na Li Ni atau Si puteri Campa, yang merupakan istri anggota ekspedisi Laksamana Cheng Ho bernama Bi Nang Un, mulai memperkenalkan teknik membatik.
Tidak hanya itu, pada akhirnya mereka menikah dengan warga pribumi dan menetap serta mengajarkan batik. Ciri khusus motifnya adalah teratai, ada juga raja naga laut selatan.
Pada penghujung abad ke-19 Lasem mencapai kejayaannya. Pada saat itu, sekitar 6000 orang dipekerjakan untuk memproduksi batik secara besar-besaran untuk di Jual di Hindia Belanda dan selanjutnya hasil produksi tersebut di ekspor ke berbagai negara seperti Singapura dan Sri Lanka.
Membatik di Malaysia
Malaysia dan Indonesia pernah bersaing dan berseteru tentang kepemilikan batik, bahkan saling klaim dari kedua negara ini juga terjadi sebelumnya. Tidak heran, karena sebagai bangsa melayu, Malaysia juga memiliki batik tradisional. Akan tetapi, pola batik menjadi ciri khas dan pembeda dengan batik di Indonesia.
Di Malaysia, motif batik tidak menggunakan symbol bernyawa, kecuali kupu-kupu. Hal ini karena berkaitan dengan hukum islam yang diterapkan di Malaysia.
Sehingga di Malaysia kita bisa menemui batik dengan ragam corak awan, bunga dan dedaunan.
Pola yang ditunjukkan di Malaysia lebih besar dan sederhana, sementara itu dari segi warna terlihat lebih “ringan” dibandingkan dengan batik di Indonesia.
Membatik di Sri Langka
Di negara ini batik sudah menjadi tradisi sekitar serratus tahun yang lalu. Bedanya dengan di Indonesia, batik hanya dijalankan dalam skala kecil yang melibatkan produksi perumahan atau perorangan.
Sementara konsumen yang tertarik hanya berasal dari turis asing yang berwisata seperti di Kawasan Hikkaduwa’s Galle Road.
Batik Afrika
Kisah ini bermula dari pedagang asal Belanda yang mengimpor batik asal Indonesia ke Afrika.
Dalam perkembangannya, masyarakat Afrika membuat batik sendiri, hal ini sama seperti ketika mereka mengklaim “Indomie” berasal dari Negaranya. Yang unik dari Afrika adalah mereka tidak menggunakan lilin untuk medianya, akan tetapi menggunakan lumpur atau campuran pasta dari tepung untuk membuat pola.
Pasta yang sering digunakan adalah dari tepung singkong atau tepung beras, menarik sekali bukan?
Khas batik India
Lebih dari 2000 tahun silam, India sudah mengenal Teknik membatik diatas kain katun. Dua bahan utama yang sering digunakan untuk membentuk motif adalah lilin dan pasta tepung beras.
Ciri khas batik India lebih khas dan condong serta bernuansa keagamaan dan dewa. Ramayana dan Mahabarata masih menjadi yang utama dalam motif batik di India.
Motif modern batik india menerapkan ragam hias wastra yaitu kain Patola dan Chintz atau Sembagi. Bahkan, motif ini ternyata sudah menyebar ke beberapa kota di Indonesia seperti Toraja, NTT, Pekalongan dan Sulawesi.
Disebutkan bahwa kegemaran bangsawan keraton Surakarta dan Yogyakarta menggunakan kain Patola menyebabkan pengrajin batik keraton meniru pola ini. Tiruan pola tenun Patola menghasilkan batik dengan warna berbeda. Salah satu yang khas adalah batik Jelamprang yang dihasilkan dari kombinasi antara tiruan pola tenun dan Patola.
Saat ini, di India batik tersedia bukan hanya untuk selendang, baju atau kain saja. Akan tetapi sudah dalam bentuk lukisan, syal, mural dan barang-barang lainnya.
Jawa Hokaki di Jepang
Batik di Jepang telah ada sejak tahun 710 sampai dengan 794. Mereka kemudian berhasil mengakulturasi budaya pada saat menjajah Indonesia, meskipun hanya menjajah selama 3.5 tahun.
Kala itu, masyarakat Jepang tertarik dengan keindahan pola batik di atas kain, dan kemudian Jepang membuat kain batik Jawa Hokokai, yang berarti persilangan antara corak khas Indonesia dan bangsa Jepang.
Motif Jawa Hokaki menonjolkan warna kuning, motifnya dipadukan dengan budaya Jawa, sehingga menghasilkan motif detail yang sangat rumit. Dalam masa itu, batik tersebut tidak dikonsumsi untuk masyarakat Jepang, justru di hadiahkan untuk tantara Indonesia pada kala itu. Satu hal yang menarik adalah masyaarakat Jepang justru tidak mengenal motif batik tersebut.
Batik di Thailand
Kita dapat menemui batik di wilayah Pulau Koh Samui, yang merupakan salah satu wilayah produksi dan banyak diantaranya menggunakan batik untuk kehidupan sehari-hari.
Bold, motif tumbuhan atau hewan masih menjadi ciri khas batik Thailand, hal ini karena Gajah merupakan hewan yang dianggap istimewa menurut kepercayaan warga di sana.
Menarik bukan sejarah Batik?. “Sudahkah kita menggunakan batik hari ini?”
Semoga bermanfaat
Copyright @FQM2019
Referensi: 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
*) Civil Engineering: Discrete Element, Engineering Mechanics, Finite Element Method, Material Engineering, Structural Engineering, Beijing University of Aeronautics and Astronautics, Beijing. 103号房间, 1号楼, 外国留学生宿舍, 北京航空航天大学 北京市海淀区学院路, 37谢元路, 邮编:100083. Office: Lecturer at Department of Civil Engineering, Faculty of Engineering Yogyakarta State University, Kampus Karangmalang, Depok – Sleman Yogyakarta Special Region 55281
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